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Whenever assembling a ranking of London’s finest restaurants, one might expect renowned award-winning establishments. However, tucked prominently among these food heavyweights is a unpretentious salonu located in a distant corner of northern London.

An Shocking Recognition

This little Turkish eatery, focusing in the specialties of Mersin, a city on Turkey’s southern coast, has been crowned the 4th best restaurant in the metropolis by a respected culinary publication. This honour has left the owners totally surprised.

“I am utterly surprised,” states the proprietor, pointing to his parents’ relentless work that resulted in their small shop earning such a lofty position on a prestigious 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which used to be a basic cafe before its conversion into a buzzing destination, has maintained much of its original feel. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the dazzling live cooking performance, the layout remains largely unchanged. “It is a tiny and intimate space,” says the owner.

The Star Dish: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the food, and this establishment more than excels. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a uncomplicated pleasure. The meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is cooked with steam to maintain a succulent consistency.

The meat is then thrown into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are added in gradually. Once the meaty mixture heats through, freshly made lavaş—a pliable bread—is laid on top to absorb all the juices. Thinly sliced onions and a handful of parsley are placed before the savoury meat is folded securely inside.

The wrap is usually eaten with a drop of lemon or some tangy accompaniments. The final product is a strong punch of flavour, with subtle hints of sumac, bold onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil bringing it all in harmony.

Beyond the Classic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and aromatic brown butter. The prominent food critic labelled this dish “among London’s few perfect, no-notes dishes”.

When it comes to dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a treat. It is soaked in less syrup than found elsewhere, resulting in it a richer, more aromatic and more balanced taste.

Surpassing the Giants

Remarkably, this modest restaurant has been placed higher than several illustrious three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself close to the peak of the list, trailing other esteemed dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant full for under £25, equivalent tasting menus at luxury establishments can cost many times that price.

The Creed of Heart

It is also one of several Turkish restaurants listed and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an pricey city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the top service and finest food but I do not agree with that,” explains the owner.

“I feel what is crucial is hospitality, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and be calm.”

The view is supported by the list’s curator, who suggested that if he was in a position of authority, he would “make it mandatory to have every chef in London visit this spot as a finishing school, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their very best”.

A Story of Perseverance

Unlike many chefs managing kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food did not apprentice at fancy establishments. “I am truly proud of our shop and our mum,” says her son.

Numerous restaurants take years to find their footing, but this one first opened its doors seven years ago. Its success is due to long, grinding, seven-day weeks of work.

“My mum would be really tired. She would source produce in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. All of it is prepared manually; she would do all of this. She is a single mum and she had a social life but her friends would come here to help her. She had children and a house to look after as well. Each of these roles shaped her into what she is now: a brilliant person,” he reflects.

A Accomplishment for the Culture

This restaurant’s success is set to resonate outside its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be happy, as I am, because the Turkish community is a major part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the broader significance of this gastronomic honour.